15. dec, 2012

Day 15: Patchouli, Is it full bottle worthy ?

When I saw day 15 brought the eau de parfum Patchouli in the Micallef Advent Calender I was slightly disappointed. I did not like Jewel for her, the scent I found in the box for day 14. Normally I do not like patchouly in perfumes, they remind me of cellars in houses in Amsterdam near the canals especially of humid mildew or mold. Not a very pleasant association.


Fortunately I did try Micallef Patchouli and really liked it. It is the second scent from the Micallef line I actually like and would consider buying, together with Avant Garde. In perfumista terms: it is full bottle worthy (FBW).


As the Swedish perfume blogger Confessions of a Perfume Nerd very rightly says in her review the quality of the Micallef fragrances: they differ very much. Some are quite ordinary (as Jewel for her) and some quite exceptional like Patchouli. I agree with her and this makes it quite challenging to test the whole Advent Calender 24 days in a row to find only one or two I do find exceptional. Especialy the feminine Micallef scents are overly sweetened for my taste and oud is not my favorite note in a perfume either. Both are important elements in the Micallef fragances. I became clear to me though that I have to be careful with gourmand perfumes as there is a thin line between enjoyably sweet and unappealingly sweet.


Some commented on the violet leaves at the beginning of Patchouli but I did not get violet leaves. I did get a sweetened boozy scent more in the style of Frapin, reminding me of Malaga wine with a light touch of almond turron from the heliotrope. After a few minutes the patchouly appears. Not a very green and earthy patchouly but rather sweet smelling more rounded one mixed with resins like tolu balsam. The vanillic patchouly drydown is very mellow and the nicest of the whole scenting experience. Micallef Patchouli is smooth and soothing like reading a good book with a nice cup of tea.


Notes according to luckyscent are top: violet leaves, orris, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver, heart: cedarwood, leather, balsam tolu, base: benzoin, cistus (labdanum), vanilla.


Patchouli is marketed as a unisex fragrance and part of the Les Exclusifs line and was launched in 2006.


Sillage: medium to light

Family: woody oriental


Painting: Three books by Vincent van Gogh 1887, the painting was made on wooden tea boxes, more information about this painting from the Van Gogh Museum on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0LT0NsH76Y&feature=player_embedded 


Other reviews of Micallef Patchouli: http://perfumenerd.blogspot.nl/2010/01/mmicallef-patchouli.html , http://www.nathanbranch.com/2008/08/its-a-patchouli-friday-profumu.html